In the 1940’s, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta bought a horse ranch in Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast for him and his family. At the time, this was considered a poor location for growing grapes to make wine but Rocchetta was not interested in making wines for the market, only for his family He had worked at Chateau Lafite in Bordeaux, loved the wines so imported Cabernet Sauvignon vines from there to plant his vineyard which he called Tenuta San Guido. He aged the wine in French oak barriques (instead of the large Slovenian Casks most Chianti producers of the day were using). The first wines were made in 1944, were rustic but good. Over the years, Rocchetta learned his craft and made better and better wines. They were unlike any other Italian wines and were called Sassicaia, they did not fit into the local wine laws and so started the Super Tuscan movement. The idea of blending Sangiovese grapes with international grapes was not new; records show it being done in the 18th century. Such wines had to be labeled as VdT, considered the lowest designation of Italy’s wines.
Sassicaia wines gained a reputation for their quality. They were, however, quite limited and may have remained a footnote in Italian wine history except for one family connection. Piero Antinori, whose family was and still is, one of the largest winemaking families in Chianti, dating back 600 years, was a relative of Rocchetta. He had tasted the early vintages of Sassicaia and knew of the quality. In 1968 Antinori persuaded Rochetta to let him have 250 cases of the wine to sell. It was an instant hit. In 1978 it won a tasting of the world’s best Cabernets held in London. The world aclaam gained by these wines meant that Sassicaia and Bolgheri now own their own DOC, the only single winery DOC in Italy. Sassicaia became the model for Antinori's Tignanello, the first of its kind in 1971. These avant garde wines were generally regarded as the first Super Tuscans. The Tignanello had no addition of white Malvasia grapes so allowing his Chianti to be more structured and powerful, and was based almost entirely on the Sangiovese and was aged in barriques (later on in 1975 25% Cabernet Sauvignon was added) it was a commercial and artistic success..
Numerous other Tuscan producers saw the results and followed. Some were frustrated by the DOC laws of Chianti, others envious of the high quality and high prices of Tignanello. Many existing wineries and several new ones started to grow grapes on the Bolgheri coast. There was no set formula for these wines. Most contained Cabernet or Merlot, a lot had Sangiovese, and some had Syrah or other varietals. The most consistent thing about them was their high pricing. Many of these wines could now be called Chianti, as the DOC laws have been changed to eliminate the need for white Malvasia grapes and allow for 100% Sangiovese, but the genie is out of the bottle. There is more cache in the Super Tuscan name at this point.
By the 1980’s “Super” wines had proven their worth. Regions throughout Italy started to create these wines almost flouting their lack of DOC status. In 1992 the Gloria law came into effect, partly in response to this phenomenon, Italy added a new classification to their wines. Indicazione Geografica Tipica or IGT was created to add some level of regulation to non-DOC(G) wines. Most Super Tuscans now carry an IGT Toscana designation.Some Super Tuscans can age for 30+ years especially if they contain Cabernet Sauvignon, and they are not made every year - the 'second' wine often a Chianti..... is!
Bolgheri is an area in Tuscany which is close to the sea, it is made up of many different soils, and the skill comes in matching each variety with 'its soil' and climate, and here top notch oenologists and agronomists play their part finding the right grape variety rather than using those laid down by the local wine law. The land is cheap and flat and the climate is warmer, so the grapes produced reach a higher sugar content quicker, they are further forward. Many feel that the New World has influenced this area of Italy more than others, this includes the fermentation methods used. More stainless steel is used with sophisticated cellar technology including temperature control to produce a richer wine with softer tannins, and in fact merlot has become a popular grape variety to plant in Italy with increases seen especially in Tuscany and even more so by the coast.
The latest trend is in varietal Cabernet Franc considered by many to be the most suitable international variety for the Tuscan soils and climate. ( Le Macchiole Paleo and Poggio al Tesoro's Dedicato a Walter are both 100% Cabernet Franc) Plantings of Syrah are also on the increase as are local varieties such as Ciliegolo.
Here are some examples of Super Tuscans with some of the grapes contained in them and the year they were started.
Sassicaia by Tenuta San Guido (1968 - cabernet sauvignon & cabernet franc)
Vigorello by San Felice (1968 - sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon & merlot)
Tignanello by Antinori (1971 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Tignanello is a blend of 80% Sangiovese with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and some Cabernet Franc In fact, just about every vintage is a consistent and outstanding wine. Antinori also makes a wine called Solaia. Usually the opposite of Tiganello, it is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and a smaller component of SangioveseVigorello by San Felice (1968 - sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon & merlot)
Tignanello by Antinori (1971 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Le Pergole Torte by Montevertine (1977 – 100% sangiovese)
Solaia by Antinori (1978 – 80%cabernet sauvignon, - franc & 20%sangiovese)
I Sodi di San Niccolò by Castellare di Castellina (1979 - sangiovese & malvasia nera)
Ghiaie della Furba by Capezzana (1979 - cabernet sauvignon, merlot & syrah)
Sammarco by Castello dei Rampolla (1980 - cabernet sauvignon)
Cepparello by Isole e Olena (1980 - sangiovese)
Sangioveto by Badia a Coltibuono (1980 - sangiovese)
Flaccianello by Fontodi (1981 - sangiovese)
Camartina by Querciabella (1981 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Grattamacco by Grattamacco (1982 - cabernet sauvignon, merlot & sangiovese)
La Gioia by Riecine (1982 - sangiovese)
Cabreo by Cabreo il Borgo (1982 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Nemo by Monsanto (1982 - cabernet sauvignon)
Fontalloro by Felsina (1983 - sangiovese)
Ripa delle More by Vicchiomaggio (1983 - sangiovese, cab sauv & merlot)
Percarlo by San Giusto a Rentennano (1983 - sangiovese)
Le Stanze by Poliziano (1983 - cabernet sauvignon & merlot)
Bruno di Rocca by Vecchie Terre di Montefili (1983 - cabernet sauvignon & sangiovese)
Boscarelli by Boscarelli (1983 - sangiovese, cab sauv, merlot & petit verdot)
Ornellaia by Tenuta dell'Ornellaia (1984 - cabernet sauvignon, merlot & cabernet franc) The estate also makes a Merlot called Massetto
Masseto by Tenuta dell'Ornellaia (1985 - merlot)
Stielle by Rocca di Castagnoli (1985 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Geremia by Rocca di Montegrossi (1985 - merlot & cabernet sauvignon)
Summus by Banfi (1985 - cab sauv, sangiovese & syrah)
Veneroso by Tenuta di Ghizzano (1985 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Vigna L'Apparita by Castello di Ama (1985 - merlot)
San Martino by Villa Cafaggio (1985 - sangiovese)
Balifico by Castello di Volpaia (1985 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Il Pareto by Tenuta di Nozzole (1985 - cabernet sauvignon)
l Corzano by Corzano & Paterno (1987 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon & merlot)
Anfiteatro by Vecchie Terre di Montefili (1987 - sangiovese)
Maestro Raro by Felsina (1987 - cabernet sauvignon)
Saffredi by Le Pupille (1987 - cabernet sauvignon, merlot & alicante)
Brancaia il Blu by Brancaia (1988 - sangiovese, merlot & cabernet sauvignon)
Accaiolo by Castello d'Albola (1988 - sangiovese & cabernet sauvignon)
Avvoltore by Moris Farms (1988 - sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon & syrah)
Desiderio by Avignonesi (1988 - merlot & cab sauv)
50&50 by Capannelle & Avignonesi (1988 - sangiovese & merlot)
Paleo by Macchiole (1989 - cabernet franc)
Olmaia by Col d'Orcia (1989 - cabernet sauvignon)
Guado al Tasso by Antinori (1990 - cabernet sauvignon, merlot & syrah)
Cavaliere by Michele Satta (1990 - sangiovese)
Romitorio by Ruffino (1990 - colorino & merlot)
N'Antia by Badia di Morrona (1991 - sangiovese, cab sauv & merlot)
Lamaione by Frescobaldi (1991 - merlot)
Il Bosco by Tenimenti d'Alessandro (1992 - syrah)
Siepi by Castello di Fonterutoli (1992 - merlot & sangiovese)
Il Carbonaione by Poggio Scalette (1992 - sangiovese)
Casalferro by Barone Ricasoli (1993 - sangiovese & merlot)
Luce by Frescobaldi (1993 - sangiovese & merlot)
Lupicaia by Castello del Terriccio (1993 - cabernet sauvignon & merlot) They also make a wine called Tassinaia, usually an equal blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet
Soloio by Casa Emma (1993 - merlot)
Messorio by Le Macchiole (1994 - merlot)
Redigaffi by Tua Rita (1994 - merlot)
Messorio by Macchiole (1994 - merlot)
Galatrona by Petrolo (1994 - merlot)
Tzingana by Monte Bernardi (1994 - merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc & petit verdot)
Il Futuro by Il Colombaio di Cencio (1995 - sangiovese, cab sauv & merlot)
Solengo by Argiano (1995 - merlot, cab sauv & syrah)
Piastraia by Michele Satta (1995 - cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sangiovese, syrah)
Rosso di Sera by Poggiopiano (1995 - sangiovese & colorino)
D'Alceo by Castello dei Rampolla (1996 - cabernet sauvignon & petit verdot)
Dulcamara by I Giusti & Zanza (1996 - cab sauv, cab franc & merlot)
Cantico by Podere La Capella (1996 - merlot)
Tenuta di Trinoro by Tenuta di Trinoro (1997 - cabernet franc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon & merlot)
San Lorenzo by Sassotondo (1997 - ciliegiolo)
Petra by Petra (1997 - cabernet sauvignon & merlot)
Primamateria by Poggerino (1997 - sangiovese & merlot)
Montervo by Cima (1998 - merlot)
Oreno by Tenuta Sette Ponti (1999 - sangiovese, merlot, cab sauv)
Testamatta by Bibi Graetz (2000 - sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, moscato nero & malvasia nera)
Magari by Angelo Gaja (2000 - merlot, cabernet sauvignon & cab franc)
Vintage Guide
Tenuta San Guido - Bolgheri Sassicaia 1998 DOC
The grapes are hand picked, destemmed, crushed and fermentation is set off by natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks. For the first week, pumping over of the must takes place three times daily; during the second week, this is reduced to once daily until the end of the 14-day fermentation period. The wine is pressed from the skins and undergoes full malolactic fermentation. This wine was then aged for 24 months in 225-litre Allier and Tronçais oak barriques - 33% new and then 6 months in bottle.
The dense ruby core had slight browning at the rim indicating some age, with the legs slow to run. Aromas of spice and smoke along with coffee pervade, and are layered with red / black fruits , there is an elegant floral edge which is perfumed.
On tasting it the well integrated tannins along with well balanced alcohol and acidity produce a well structured and supported wine still with plenty of fruit and a spicy long finish which is crisp but expansive, the red and black fruits are layered with spice and smokeyness with a hint of liquorice and savoury nuttiness.
Priced at £218
Antinori Tignanello 2007 IGT
This wine is made up of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, and were harvested by hand after a good season, they were then fermented at 27C and matured in oak barrels for 12 months followed by a further year in bottle before being shipped.
The wine was medium to deep ruby with no garnet rim, the aromas were of red and black fruits including cherry and blackcurrants with a spicey menthol edge and a hint of savouriness. The gripping savoury tannins were ripe but obvious, flavours of red and black fruits and spies are supported by good acidity and body. A finish that has spice and a savouriness, a wine to be kept and enjoyed.Price around £50 a bottle
Marchesi Antinori Solaia 2007 IGT
The grapes used in this wine are 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in 100% new oak for 18 months followed by another 12 in bottle. Careful selection is used here and production is low.
A deep ruby core with darker tints and a very narrow rim. Aromas of black fruits ( black currant, blackberry) and cherry along with repressed spices and tobacco. Minerality plays its part as does a slight edge of mint.
On the mouth this is fruity and minty, spices abound and the gripping, chewy, fine tannins add structure and layered complexity. The spices (due to oak usage I feel) overpower the wine slightly for me, they need time to integrate. The body has texture and the acidity and alcohol feel well balanced, a lovely silky wine with much time in it yet!
The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (30%) and Syrah (10%) with alcoholic fermentation taking place in steel tanks, and malolactic fermentation in french oak it is then matured for 16 months in barriques and laid down for a further 12 months in bottles.
A deep ruby colour with a hint of black had intense savoury aromas of spicy tobacco, black cherry and some red fruits, it has overtones of smokiness. On tasting it the fine gripping but ripe tannins add structure to this medium bodied wine, the black cherry and red fruit flavours along with the smokey spices are enrobed by the savouriness and the finish which is long is of fresh red fruits, the wine feels a touch spirity - and given time may integrate well, a complex elegant wine especially at the price of about £32 - buy, buy, buy.
Isole e Olena 'Cepparello' Toscano Rosso 2006 IGT
The producer, Isole e Olena (Paolo di Marchi is the maker) could actually label this as Chianti Classico, but such is the power of the super tuscan 'IGT badge' that they have chosen to park their wine under its banner! This is a lovely 100% sangiovese wine and has all the savouriness that you would expect, it has sweet red fruits on both nose (which is rich and vibrant) and palate, along with herbs and spice and a hint of menthol. The tannins are flavoursome and silky, the mouth cleansing acidity is balanced by the medium rounded body of the wine, the length is long and savoury! Overall a beautiful structured wine - and one that will be drinkable for the next 3-7 years - Enjoy!
The price you would expect to pay is about £40-45.
Ornellaia Bolgheri Superior 2007
Produced by Tenuta dell Ornellaia, this is a grape blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot which was harested between August ( Merlot) and October for the Cabernet Sauvignon, this is what you would describe as a Bordeaux blend. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks for 1 week followed by maceration on the skins for 10-15 days.The wine is a deep ruby with black tints, a small narrow rim, aromas of dark red fruits, spice and cedar fill the glass. Dark cherry is the pervading aroma and is present on the palate matched with spicey vanilla, balsamic and a savoury edge, the tannins are fine, silky and ripe, they enrobe the flavours and add structure and enjoyment to the balanced and silky wine, the acidity keeping the well ripened fruits fresh even after 5 years. Oak ageing is a factor in its history (70% new oak and 30% used once) and Malolactic fermentation takes place within barrel. Aged in barrel for 18months, blended after the first 12, then aged in bottle for 12 months+. This wine has the complexity and structure to allow it to age for quite a few years.Expect to pay£130+
Fattoria Le Pupille Elisabetta Geppetti Saffredi IGT 2007
This wine is a Merlot blend, and is deep ruby with a very dark core and narrow ruby rim, it has aromas of balsamic, spice, red fruits and cinnamon overtones, the rich red and black fruits come through on the palate as well as the spices, the tannins are very soft and ripe, with underlying textural structure, full bodid and with fresh acidity that is uplifting. An elegant, well balanced wine that manages the full-on fruit enrobed with spice by careful acidity balance. The cedar box, smokey spiciness is due in part to malolactic fermentation in french oak as well as barrique ageing. Prices are around £75
This wine is dedicated to the late brother of Marilisa Allegrini co-owner of the 110-acre estate and is 100% Cabernet Franc aged in French Oak for 18months, this has alot to do with its character.
The core is medium deep and ruby coloured, aromas of ripe red fruits, spice and balsamic are quite closed initially, but there are hints of carbonic maceration on the nose.
Both red and black fruits are present on the palate though black fruits dominate balanced by the smokey spice , the high acidity maintains the fruits freshness while the silk ripe tannins together with the high alcohol and weighty palate balance and enrobes the wine. A wine with pedigree!
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